Voyage to Thailand to Koh Phi Phi and the Similan Islands - Sep/Oct 2001

Sep 16             depart Raffles Marina            (530 miles)   
                                                       01†20.53íN            103†38.22íE
Sep 21             arrive Phuket       07ƒ50.14íN            098ƒ25.13íE

 Delays, delays, delays - the Heraclitus was lashed down to the dock of Raffles Marina for what seemed like forever with many kinks and bumps needing attention and ironing out before she was fit for the seas again.  The great improvements to our systems during dry-dock, including the installation of a shining new 16kVa generator, had corollary effects on the electrical and other shipís systems.  But finally on the 16th September, a jubilant crew cast off the lines and set sail for Thailand.  We would spend the next six weeks there, exploring the reefs of Koh Phi Phi and the more remote Similan Islands. 

The voyage took us through the Malacca Straits which proved exciting in terms of avoiding the reasonably heavy shipping traffic but uneventful with regard to the threats of piracy.  We cooked Thai food and talked about the upcoming science study in anticipation of our arrival.  We were entering a new phase of shipís life - the battles of dry-dock and its aftermath behind us, the underwater world of jewelled islands ahead. 

Sep 28             move to Ton Sai Bay, Koh Phi Phi      
                        07ƒ43.588íN            098ƒ46.308íE

The ship anchored in the middle of the beautiful Ton Sai Bay on Koh Phi Phi.  The limestone cliffs soared out of the sea around us.  We tucked ourselves into a corner of the bay to stay out of the hectic passage of longtail boats, their propellors churning up the water with a deep and aggressive commotion.  But nothing could drown out the sounds of the dance clubs at night.  Koh Phi Phi has increased constantly in its popularity over the last 20 years and reached a critical point in catering to demand after it was used as a location for filming the infamous movie, The Beach.  But the Thai government implemented a system of marine parks in the mid-80s which have helped protect the reefs from the impact of so many visitors.

The science study was intensive - we didnít have too much time to dwell on it, but collected our data efficiently with a crew of enthusiastic first-timers at PCRF field work.  And as soon as we were finished, we headed back to a more remote part of Thailand for some more adventurous, and quieter, diving.

 Oct 23             move to Koh Miang, Similan Island    
                              08ƒ33.92íN            097ƒ38.58íE

The Similan Islands are a stunning collection of nine islands with no communities living there, just a cabin for the Princess of Thailand on a cliff-top.  She has taken on the management of Thailandís marine parks and the Similanís is one of its top diving destinations.  There is a steady stream of liveaboard boats that come here from Phuket but we were just ahead of their season and could enjoy diving in relative solitude. 

The underwater landscape is made up of large boulders which serve as the substrate for corals and gathered around them are the reef fish, diverse and plentiful.  There were several sightings of banded sea snakes, one of a nurse shark and plenty of pelagic fish action.  Currents could be strong and a lot of the expeditions were for drift diving. 

One of the beaches became the focus for night-time activity.  As we crept away in the starlight, back to the ship, the waves would rise high on the sand to wash away our footsteps, leaving a perfect strip of white sand at dawn.  The magical combination of the limestone islands and the underwater life made the Similans a very entrancing stop for us. 

We returned to Phuket for a hectic week of gathering supplies, picking up new crew members, filling up on diesel and preparing the ship for a month at sea.  Our next stop would be Bali, over 2000 nautical miles away.